I am pretty sure that the average person has a pre-conceived idea of what a Master Gardener is. Perhaps you think they are people who know the names of 99% of the plants in a garden, people who know what soil Ph is by looking at it, people who have answers to every disease or pest problem in your garden, and people who have truly lovely yards. Well, you are wrong, wrong, wrong. Yes a very few Master Gardeners can fit into this mold above, but most are really environmentalists with a tendency to like learning about science and a lot like you in other ways. Their lives are busy and they get distracted and they make mistakes in their yards. But, having written that, I admit that I got a little anal before having 12 Master Gareners come to look at my yard for an evaluation on whether it was Bay Wise ... good planting decisions to improve water quality for our rivers and bays.
Wanted colleagues to see my yard in the spring when things are blooming and weeds have not taken over. |
I am the type of gardener that just lets stuff grow when and where it likes after I plant it. This is the Master Gardener hodge podge bed. I almost lost all of this dianthus to moles but soaked the bed with a mixture of cod liver oil and soap and that seemed to discourage them this year.
Master Gardener yards can range from floral displays to woodland hollows, to a simple lawn and vegetable garden. They do view yard work as therapy and prefer that to watching TV. They do have a love of eating fruits and vegetables and tend to be purists if these are not freshly picked. They do tend to avoid planting exotics that can be invasives. You will not find a butterfly bush (Buddleia) in a Master Gardener's yard. Yes, we love butterflies. But this bush is somewhat invasive (in 8 states), does not provide any food for the larva of butterflies and other beneficial insects although it does provide nectar. Therefore, why not plant something that allows butterfly babies to grow? I will not ask you to dig up your butterfly bush, but please do not plant more when there are other shrubs that are good for butterflies. (It is a controversial plant but I tend to agree with this lady.)
I had to wait sometime before I would allow Master Gardeners to judge my garden as to whether it would pass the Bay Wise test. The test is really easy to pass, but I did not want them to see the mistakes I had made. I dug up my butterfly bush, my black bamboo (it was lovely for 4 years before it started to take off), and all of the Miscanthus (a tall grass that looks very lovely but is also invasive and is not eaten by deer and seeds are not eaten by birds.) Some nurseries will tell you they sell a non-invasive version of this grass...yeah, they tend to say that about a LOT of plants. They also sell or sold thousands of ornamental pear trees for subdivisions and road sides that were supposed to be sterile and they can be found growing extensively along the edges of roads and highways in the mid-Atlantic. (We do have a native Miscanthus but no one sells it.)
In the photo above was the last invasive I had yet to remove (red arrow). It is isolated but still spread seeds in the cracks which I have to pull. It is Catmint Walker's Low. Yes it is related to the mint family and that is why it is an invasive. It spreads by seeds and runners. It has the most beautiful blue fringey flowers each summer and gets to stay one more year until I can find something that is the same color, shape and bloom time.
If you research you can find nurseries that sell native plants and can tell you where they grow best. Yes, SOME natives are as invasive as some non-natives, but you can feel less guilty and know that there are natural predators.
Above two photos show my ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolias). This one is a cultivar as it is lime green and tends to be smaller than the 8 feet high version. It is native, tolerates a huge range of soils and moisture levels, and blooms in May, and makes a lovely hedge or single mounding plant when trimmed. Called ninebark because the bark exfoliates. NOTE not everything in my yard is native.
I was judged on whether I encouraged wildlife. I have bird houses, piles of broken branches, bird baths, and hummingbird feeders and lots of downed trees as food for everything under the sun. We do not (actually in my area ... another post...CANNOT) bring down dying or dead trees (example is second photo below). In the photo immediately above the right arrow is pointing to my butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) related to the milkweed. I thought the winter had killed this native. It is hard to grow from seed, but I will keep trying. It is one of the few plants that the larva of Queen and Monarch butterflies eat. Butterflies and humming birds love it.
Above photos are NOT the ugly. The compost container which hubby waters and shovels monthly from side to side makes the best compost for top dressing of our gardens in the fall. We have a jar in the kitchen for all scraps except animal products that go into this area along with shredded leaves and grass that we add later in the summer. Right now all grass is mowed with a mulching blade and returned to the lawn. Yes, it makes for messy walking and grass clippings in the house, but it is much healthier for the lawn. Beyond that is a pile of weedy roots that we hope to cook through out the summer. And then in the far end is the weeds that need to be burned and cannot go into the compost pile. I learned from this recent yard visit that timing for burning weeds has to be carefully done. If the pile has been sitting a while and it is spring you should avoid a burn because you will kill a lot of insects! (And of course you have to check for those silly wrens.) The photo above the compost pile is a holding bed where I dump the extra iris (an other stuff) until I can find them a home. We also hang on to most of the wood that falls into the yard for winter fires.
Now to the ugly.
I do plant about 6 to 8 roses in my garden. But these are really the bad children of the garden. They require too much fertilizer that can run off onto the storm water, they require applications for fungus and pests, which can kill important pollinators and insects and they require lots of water. Master Gardeners do grow roses (one in my group just bought 30 new plants to replace his winter kill.) But we have to be aware that they are not the most environmental part of your yard. I am using a systemic fertilizer/pesticide applied three times a year at the base of each plant to avoid sprays that are soooo dangerous to everything and to keep the toxins as local as possible. Fungicides (and pesticides) are killing our honeybees and many other pollinators and larva...PLEASE BE CAREFUL with them. Hubby is going to a colloidal spray (clay) for our fruit trees this year to avoid toxic applications.
We were evaluated on how we watered our plants, how we treated our lawn, whether we had native plants, whether we planned for wildlife, our use of chemicals and how we controlled stormwater runoff. We were not evaluated on flowers and landscaping. And we passed!! I got a "Demonstration" sign which is one level up from a Bay Wise sign. No, it will not stay in this bed as it looks odd, but this is where we took the photo. The sign cannot go out to the end of our long driveway as I understand some idiots steal them! So I will move it to the beginning of the beds and hope people notice and ask about it! (And yes I am a bit anal as all the pottery is color coordinated with the house.)